We have answers to the most frequently asked Intarsia questions below. If you don’t find the answer you are looking for here please feel free to call or email.
Q: Can I sell the projects I make from your patterns because of their copyright?
A: Yes, you must include "design/pattern created by Judy Gale Roberts" and you are making the projects on a personal level. If you are going to “manufacture” or have our designs “mass produced” then you will have to obtain a license to do so. It is illegal to redistribute or re-sell the patterns.
Q: Can I have copies made of a pattern that has a copyright on it? Is it better to trace the pattern sections or make multiple copies and glue it to the wood?
A: Yes you can have copies made. Most people are making multiple copies of the pattern and cutting the pattern pieces to glue on the wood for sawing the parts. You can use carbon paper to transfer the parts onto the wood, however cutting and pasting the actual pattern onto each color of wood is going to be the most accurate method. We found 6 copies will be enough for most projects. You need so many because you will be cutting up the pattern parts and gluing them to the face of the wood. Keep one pattern as your master. Cut up each piece of the pattern that has a different color or grain direction.
I cut the patterns leaving between 1/8” to 1/4” beyond the pattern line. Leaving enough of the pattern gives you a “lead in” line to get your blade on track before you start cutting the actual part. It is illegal to re-sell the pattern copies. They are for the buyers' use only. On each invoice there is a release for the patterns purchased on that particular invoice. Take the invoice with you when you go make copies. Click this link to download a release.
Q. Can I use a band saw?
A: Most of the patterns are designed for either saw, we used a band saw for about 10 years. Half of the pattern projects shown were cut out using a band saw with an 1/8" blade. The scroll saw will make a much smoother cut.
Q: What is a Wonder Wheel?
A: The Wonder Wheel is an abrasive wheel that works best on a bench grinder that goes at least 3450 rpm. The Wonder Wheel is flat. You can use a Diamond Wheel Dresser to sharpen it. Click here to see a video for sharpening your Wonder Wheel. For more detailed instructions about using the Wonder Wheel click on this link. New video about Using the Wonder Wheel
Q: How do you set up the Flex Drum Sander and the Wonder Wheel?
A: If you have limited space and want to have one unit for your Flex Drum Sander and the Wonder Wheel you can buy a variable speed bench grinder. The key word here is VARIABLE. Turn the speed down to the lowest speed when using the sander, turn the speed up to the highest speed for the wheel. I suggest getting the 8″ variable speed grinder, the motor is larger and will have more power when sanding. There are many different companies that make the grinders (Sears, Delta, Porter-Cable). When you buy the grinder you will need to take off all the guards, grinding stones, and other attachments. The Flex Drum Sander arbor fits directly on the motor shaft, so does the Wonder Wheel. Depending on the size of the motor, the shaft can vary in size. On most 8″ variable speed bench grinders the shaft is 5/8″, on 6″ grinders it may have a 1/2″ shaft. The Flex Sander will fit the 5/8″ shaft and attach with a couple of set screws. It comes with a split reducer bushing to fit the 1/2″ motor shaft . The Wonder wheel has a 1″ mounting hole, you will need to get a reducer bushing depending on the size of the motor shaft to run the wheel. We do have these available on the hardware page.
Pictured above is the grinder stripped down. The arbor will then slide onto the shaft. If you have a motor with a 1/2″ shaft you will need to use the split reducer bushing.
You will then tighten the set screws. If you have trouble sliding the sanding
sleeve onto the arbor you can drop a small amount of dish soap inside the end of the foam sleeve before sliding it onto the arbor.
When using the “Flex Drum Sander” be sure to turn the speed DOWN to the slowest setting.
Q: How do I set up my Bench Lathe with the Inflatable Sanders?
When using the “Wonder Wheel” be sure to turn the speed UP to the fastest setting.
Setting up the Foredom
The Collets are needed to attach the sanders to the Foredom. Each set has three Collets. The two in the bag labeled A-CHA-5 are a 1/8″ & 3/32″. The 1/4″ Collet you see at the bottom will already be in the Collet Holder. There are two tapered spindles in a plastic box used for buffing. You will not need these for sanding your Intarsia projects.
|Slide the Collet Holder onto the shaft of the Bench Lathe.
Line up the flat edge on the shaft with the set screws.
|Use the Allen wrench provided to tighten the set screws to the shaft.
|Put your sander in the Collet Holder. Use the combination wrench to secure it.
Insert the bar into the hole on the collet to lock the holder, use the wrench to tighten the holder.
Do not crank down on it, a snug fit will do.
Releasing Air and Removing Sleeves
Releasing air from the short and long inflatable sanders can bring about an unexpected “banging” noise. To avoid this and simplify the sleeve replacement process, proceed as follows:
Grip the sander in one hand (e.g. left) and squeeze quite hard. While doing this, loosen the nut two turns with your other hand. Using the left hand, grip the drive shaft and wiggle it to and fro. Continue to squeeze gently as the air is released. Drum, long and short sanders may also be deflated using the Allen Key.
Take care to ensure that the rubber remains under the edge of the washer before retightening the nut by hand. The sander is now ready for the next sanding sleeve.
Q: Can the Gel Finish (Old Masters) we use be bought in stores?
A: Yes! Unfortunately it is not widely available, but there are some paint stores and hardware stores that do carry it. You can call Old Masters 1-800- 747-3436. Perhaps a search on the internet will bring up some other dealers. If you can’t find a dealer remember that we mail order the gel in the US. Sorry, no Gel to Hawaii or Alaska and Canada.
Q: Where do the patterns you sell come from?
A: Judy designs all of our patterns. First she makes a rough sketch of the pattern, shading the parts to get an idea what it will look like using the different shades of wood. After it passes the composition/balance step the design is enlarged to scale. Next we look it over and edit it from a sawing standpoint. The pattern is then made into an intarsia piece. During the creation, any modifications to make the pattern easier to use are noted on the test pattern. Next the finish is applied and the project is glued to a backing. It is studied again to see how the shades and grains work together. After all these steps the patterns are printed and made available to the public.
The most accurate way to cut the parts for any Intarsia project is to make multiple copies of the pattern. The pattern pieces are then glued to the different shades of wood. Make at least five copies of the pattern. You need so many because you will be cutting up the pattern parts and gluing them to the face of the wood. Keep one pattern as your master. Cut up each piece of the pattern that has a different color or grain direction.
I cut the patterns leaving between 1/8” to 1/4” beyond the pattern line. Leaving enough of the pattern gives you a “lead in” line to get your blade on track before you start cutting the actual part.Q: How do I stick my pattern pieces to the wood?
|We are using the “900” Creative Station with repositionable adhesive roll.
Start by spraying a very light coat of Repositionable Spray Adhesive to stick the pattern pieces upside down to a piece of paper. The paper is a temporary way to hold the pattern sections together to put glue evenly on the back of the pieces.
|Run the pattern parts through the Creative Station machine. This will apply glue to the back of the pattern pieces. (This machine can be found for a pretty good price online. If you purchase this, be sure to get the Repositionable Adhesive Refill to replace the permanent adhesive cartridge)
|Peel the paper off carefully, sometimes the pattern pieces stick to the paper.
Now you are ready to place them on your wood and begin sawing.
A: I make a temporary shim to hold all the parts I want to sand as a unit. Please click here for detailed description.
A: Nope! Long ago we used them but have gotten away from them. We now use “mirror hangers”. These hangers can be found at Lowe’s and Home Depot as well as Kmart and Wall Mart in the picture framing section. We use a #6 x 1/2” screw with the hanger Just be sure to pre drill the hole before fastening. These hangers are also adjustable somewhat. Just snug the screw in the clamp and then if you need the project to hang a little right or left you can swivel the clamp.
Q: How do I know where to put my hangers, can this be shown on the patterns?
A: No, Everyone does not take off the same amount of wood when sanding so it would hang differently. Place your fingers on both sides of your project where you think the hanger should go. You can adjust your fingers until the piece is balanced, then mark it on the back. For framed or heavier pieces you can use two hangers along with wire for hanging pictures, this will allow you to adjust it once it is hung.