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Gold Blades are a quick cutting saw blade for all types of wood, works best with softer woods.
Best quality; skip tooth; very long durability due to special hardening; offset teeth for problem free cutting of curves; reverse teeth prevents wood splintering on the underside.
Tough Little Blades Universal All Around Blades for Hard and Soft Woods.
Quick cutting blade for all types of wood. Best Quality; skip tooth (widely spaced toothing); very long durability due to special hardening; offset teeth for a more problem-free cutting of curves.
Platinum Blades are a quick cutting blade for all types of wood. Extremely sharp teeth and a strong back for best performance and long life. The Skip tooth design for a rapid discharge of sawdust so that no blue burn marks are left on the wood in tight radius cuts. Reverse teeth prevents wood splintering on the underside.
TMR Titanium Reverse Skip Tooth quick cutting saw blade, characterized by the positive cutting angle of their teeth. This results in an aggressive cut no drifting of the cut, extremely long useful life due to special hardening in oil.
TM (non reverse) has more teeth per inch along with the positive cutting angle which makes it a more aggressive cutting blade.
Pictured above is the grinder stripped down. The arbor will then slide onto the shaft (remember if you have a motor with a 1/2″ shaft you will need to use the split reducer bushing).
You will then tighten the set screws. If you have trouble sliding the sanding sleeve onto the arbor you can use a small amount of dish soap.
When using the “Flex Drum Sander” be sure to turn the speed to the slowest setting.
When using the “Wonder Wheel” be sure to turn the speed to the fastest setting.
Picture #2 You will slide the Collet Holder onto the shaft of the Bench Lathe.
Picture #3 Use the Allen wrench provided to tighten it to the shaft.
Picture #4 Then slide your sander onto the Collet Holder. Use the wrench to secure it. Insert the other end into a set screw to hold in place while you tighten. You won’t need to crank down on it, a snug fit will do.
Pictures #5 & #6 This shows how to deflate your sanders.
Inflating Model K-140 Sanders
1. Wipe the rubber bulb and the inside of the sleeve with a slightly damp cloth to ensure a good grip for the sleeve.
2. Check that the rubber bulb is centered under the cap washers so that there will be no air leakage and then check that the Allen cap screw is tight on with the Allen key provided.
3. Install the desired sanding sleeve on the drum, making sure the slightly higher side of the lapped edge is heading into the work first. This is usually in a clockwise direction.
4. It’s important to have some of the sleeve projecting past each end of the drum, to protect the rubber, and also to take advantage of one of the main features of our drums – the ability to soft sand even on the corners of the drum.
5. When fitted with a sanding sleeve, place a 1/16″ spacer/flat washer on a firm surface. Place the flat end of the drum on the spacer. This will allow the sanding sleeve to project past the end of the drum. Inflate as follows.
6. Pump carefully until you are used to the amount of air required to inflate. The strokes should be made with a small distinct thrust, especially when the sander is new. A simple pliancy test is to press the sander together using your thumb and index finger. It should be easy to press the rubber and sanding sleeve against the inner spindle. Again, it’s much faster to get the required firmness while inflating, than to pump the drum firm, and then try to release just the right amount of air by loosening the bottom nut. Often, especially if the drum has been pumped up quite firm, the air escapes much too quickly to tighten the nut in time.
7. Test the drum on a smooth scrap piece to make sure you have the right speed and that everything is tight.
8. To deflate the sander use the Allen key and untighten the Allen screw.
How to Inflate Model K-120 Drum Sander:
1. Center the rubber bulb under the cap washer, then tighten the Allen head cap screw with the Allen key provided.
2. On the shaft end, once again center the bulb under the cap washer, then hand tighten the hex nut firmly. If using a wrench tighten lightly!
3. Install the sanding sleeve by gently pushing the sleeve at the joined edge over the rubber drum. Use a washer or coin to allow the sleeve to slightly extend past end of the drum.
4. Place hand pump on shaft end, grip sides of the drum with two fingers, inflate while feeling for just the right firmness to match the grit used. To release air from the drum, slowly undo the hex nut until sufficient air escapes, then quickly tighten the hex nut.
Click on the following link to view a video for inflating your sanders:
Just follow these simple steps and it will be as good as new.
First we have to establish where the leak is.
Remove the sanding sleeve and give the sander a couple quick pumps of air to make it look like somewhat of a ball (photo 1), then place it in a glass of water with the stem up (photo 2). Now, look for bubbles. If there are bubbles coming out around the screw on the bottom or from around the nut on the stem end, they might need to be tightened or loosened a little. Over tightening the screw or nut can cause them to leak. The nut should be only as tight as you can get it with your fingers. The same goes for the allen screw, just lightly tighten it. Now try it in the water again. If the air bubbles are coming out of the rubber bulb then you will have to replace the bulb. We have the replacement bulbs available on the site.
If the air is coming out of the stem end where the inflation hole is located, here is the fix.
1-Remove the nut on the stem end of the sander (Photo#3).
2-Remove the allen screw from the end of the sander (Photo#4).
3-Grab the rubber bulb at the stem end as shown in Photo #5 and stretch it away from the sander and pull down as shown in Photo #6.
4-Continue pulling until the bulb comes completely off the end of the sander. CAUTION- The bulb must be removed this way to prevent tearing the bulb because of the different size holes. The bulb must be reassembled in the same way you took it off, starting at the end first.
5– FIRST try this, after the bulb is off the sander you will see what looks like a piece of medical tubing in the center covering up a small hole. If you have a compressor blow through the inlet hole as shown in Photo #7. If you do not have a compressor then you can use the Kirjes hand pump and vigorously pump air through the sander to make the piece of tubing flutter. You need to blow out any dirt that might be under the tubing. Now you can use the directions later in the article to reassemble the sander and see if that solves the problem. If you test the sander again in water and bubbles still come out the air inlet end. DO THIS – SCREAM!!!!!!! Then call us.
We will send you a new piece of tubing then you can fix the sander. If fixed correctly it will be as good as new.
Replacing the tubing:
When you receive the piece of tubing from us disassemble the sander as covered earlier. Next remove the old piece of tubing but be very careful not to scratch the sander when taking it off because air might be able to escape from under the new tube. Just grab it with your fingers (Photo #8) and pull it all the way off. If you have trouble holding on to it then you can get a pair of pliers to help but be sure not to scratch the shaft.
Look at the inner part of the shaft, the area under the rubber tube, it will probably be a little rusty (Photo #9). To remove the rust you can put the sander (without the hardware) back into your Foredom, or whatever motor you use to run the sander. Use a 220 grit or finer sandpaper and polish the shaft to remove the rust (Photo#10). After polishing the shaft be sure to blow through the fill hole to remove the grit and dirt.
Take the new rubber piece and just check to see if it fits in between the two flanges of the sander. I have found them to be a little long (they were sent to me pre cut by Kirjes). If yours is a little long you can just snip a little off one of the ends and recheck to see if it fits.
Now you are ready to put the rubber tube back on the sander. Using a pair of needle nose pliers will help spread the tube enough to get it on the sander (Photo’s #11 #12 and #13). Presto! You are ready to assemble the sander.
Reassemble the sander. Start by placing the large hole of the bulb UP (Photo #14). Now take the very end of the sander and place it at an angle into the large hole and then pull the rubber bulb up and over the end flange (Photo #15). Slide the bulb up to the top flange at the inflation end and pull it up and over the flange (Photo #16). Now it can be put back together, but before you do, moisten the bulb at the very end where the large allen screw goes (Photo #17). This will lubricate the rubber so the screw won’t twist or buckle the rubber. Holding the sander in your hand use the allen wrench and tighten the screw about as tight as you can get it by hand and STOP . Over tightening could cause it to leak. Now replace the washer and the nut at the other end and then tighten it finger tight (I do not moisten this end because it uses a washer to help prevent twisting the rubber).
Now you can put the sanding sleeve back on and inflate the sander. In the case it does not hold air, try the water glass test again. If it is still leaking out of the stem end just give us a call. We will have you send it back to us and we will fix it free of charge. If the bulb has a hole in it we will charge you only for the new bulb.
2.) Run the pattern parts through the Xyron machine. (This machine can be found for a pretty good price online. If you purchase this, be sure to get the Repositionable Adhesive Refill to replace the permanent adhesive cartridge)
3.) Peel the clear film off.
4.) Finally peel the paper off, then you are ready to place them on your wood and begin sawing.